DISCOVERING CHARMS OF CHARMINAR DURING RAMZAN

Charminar, the iconic monument that stands as a testament to Hyderabad's rich heritage, takes on a special allure during the holy month of Ramzan. As dusk settles and the call to prayer echoes through the bustling streets, the area around Charminar transforms into a vibrant hub of activity, drawing locals and tourists alike to experience the unique blend of spirituality, tradition, and festivity.

There seems to be an unwritten rule in the old city of Hyderabad on sultry, sweaty evenings during the Ramzan. As the sun sets and people break their fast, they must gravitate to Charminar almost involuntarily. You shall not question, you shall lose yourself at Charminar, the rule says. There are so many people around the four imposing towers that you wonder if all homes have been emptied out on the square and its narrow lanes radiating out.

A Journey Begins at Sunset

My visit to Charminar during Ramzan began as the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the ancient structure and the surrounding marketplaces. The air was filled with the tantalizing aromas of street food being prepared for iftar, the meal to break the day's fast. Walking towards Charminar, I was greeted by a sea of people from diverse backgrounds, all united in the spirit of Ramzan.

As you approach Charminar, you see a tightly woven mesh of people that only gets tighter and denser with every step. As if there are invisible concentric circles around this 433-year-old monument. The smaller the circle, the more the number of people packed into it. At first it seems as if it is impossible to cut through the mesh. But as you get closer, you realise that the weaving is loose. Or loose enough for one person to pass by. You brush past people. People brush past you. No one apologises, no one gives you dagger eyes. To touch other people without intent is not a crime. Density has its own etiquette. But this density is not only about people.

Ramzan nights flood your every sense. As you walk slowly – the only way you can walk here – you are hit by the delicious charred patthar ka gosht mingling with a vendor singing ‘mohabbat ka juice mosambi ka juice’ in a loudspeaker, mingling with the lights bouncing off the tall stacks of glass bangles, mingling with the sizzling hot biryani handis right on the footpath with people skirting past without getting singed. Everything seems part of a singular, undecipherable experience until your senses settle down and start unpacking things.

The Grandeur of Charminar

Approaching Charminar, its grandeur was awe-inspiring. The monument, with its four graceful minarets rising high against the evening sky, stood as a symbol of Hyderabad's architectural brilliance and cultural richness. As I entered the courtyard, I couldn't help but marvel at the intricate details of the arches and the exquisite Islamic art adorning the structure.

The area around Charminar during Ramzan is a tapestry of culture and tradition. Shops adorned with colorful lights and decorations lined the streets, offering an array of goods from traditional clothing to exquisite jewelry. The bustling markets added to the festive atmosphere, with vendors calling out their wares and shoppers haggling for the best deals.

Iftar Delights

Smoke does a dervish whirl rising from the large black sizzling stone set atop orange coals. Marinated pieces of mutton are placed on it and the fragrance briefly pushes away the stench of exhaust from traffic passing less than six feet from stacks of kebabs. You try some of the crisp, juicy kebabs and ask what material that black stone is. The roadside chefs come up with all kinds of exotic stories, even one about it being extracted from the seabed. But it is in fact just granite which was used as flooring before marble became chic.

As you move on from Begum Bazar towards Charminar, you can tell the dal and birishta of the haleem from the saffron-scented biryani. Amid it, the occasional burst of sweet corn drenched in butter. Hunger is your pesky, unshakable companion here.

Smoke does a dervish whirl rising from the large black sizzling stone set atop orange coals. Marinated pieces of mutton are placed on it and the fragrance briefly pushes away the stench of exhaust from traffic passing less than six feet from stacks of kebabs. You try some of the crisp, juicy kebabs and ask what material that black stone is. The roadside chefs come up with all kinds of exotic stories, even one about it being extracted from the seabed. But it is in fact just granite which was used as flooring before marble became chic.

As you move on from Begum Bazar towards Charminar, you can tell the dal and birishta of the haleem from the saffron-scented biryani. Amid it, the occasional burst of sweet corn drenched in butter. Hunger is your pesky, unshakable companion here.

Spirituality and Reflection

Amidst the hustle and bustle, there was a palpable sense of spirituality and reflection. Families gathered in quiet corners for prayers, and charitable organizations set up stalls to distribute food and essentials to the less fortunate. The spirit of giving and compassion was evident everywhere, reminding me of the true essence of Ramzan.

The Charm of Nightfall

As night fell, Charminar took on a different charm. The monument was illuminated with thousands of twinkling lights, casting a magical glow that added to the festive ambiance. The streets around Charminar were alive with music, cultural performances, and lively conversations, creating an unforgettable atmosphere of celebration and joy.

Exploring the Surrounding Bazaars

No visit to Charminar during Ramzan is complete without exploring the surrounding bazaars. I wandered through Laad Bazaar, known for its exquisite bangles and traditional attire, and tasted the famous Hyderabadi biryani and Haleem at a local eatery. The blend of sights, sounds, and flavors was a testament to the city's rich culinary and cultural heritage.

Crowds

The streets around Charminar are designed for road rage at this time of the year. Bikes, scooters, autos and the odd XUV come face-to-face, then pass within a hair’s breadth of each other, sometimes bumping into each other gently, but tempers rarely flare up. The first rule of driving near Charminar during Ramzan is: accommodate with a capital A. Rage can backfire when there is no elbow room. One auto driver honks incessantly until other auto drivers reprimand him rather gently. They tell him there is nothing that can be done until the traffic and vendors (who occupy more than half the road) before them move. The honker eases up, but the noise doesn’t. Sometimes, the only way to make a little room here is to honk. Not incessantly, but you need to honk.

Reflections and Memories

As I bid farewell to Charminar and the vibrant Ramadan festivities, I couldn't help but reflect on the experiences and memories I had gathered. The sense of community, the richness of tradition, and the spirit of Ramzan had left a lasting impression on me. It was a journey that not only introduced me to Hyderabad's cultural tapestry but also deepened my understanding and appreciation of the values that unite us as humans. Visiting Charminar during Ramadan is a journey into the heart and soul of Hyderabad. It's a celebration of diversity, spirituality, and tradition that leaves a lasting impact on anyone fortunate enough to experience it. As I look back on my time at Charminar during Ramadan, I am filled with gratitude for the opportunity to witness such a vibrant and meaningful cultural celebration.

Apart from Charminar, there are many historical monuments in and around Old City that add to Hyderabad's heritage, each speaking for its own.